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SUSPENSION

I'm currently running a 2.0" Suspension Lift with a 1" 4crawler Body Lift to clear the MT/R's. Up front, I'm using some TRD Tundra Progressive-Rate Coils with a set of OME N91s Struts. On top of that, I'm using some extended top plate studs in the OEM top plate that I got by calling the guys at Wheeler's Offroad in order to add a single set of 3/8" thick Top Plate Spacers. This adds a total of 3/8" inches to the top plate and an additional 0.5" of lift up front. I initially had two sets of spacers, but I have since removed one set of spacers due to excessive CV boot wear and one actually tearing due to over-extension during droop. I have some Sway Bar Disconnects that help with suspension travel offroad. I NO LONGER sell the HDPE Top Plate Spacers! They are NOW AVAILABLE FROM STEVE AT SONORANSTEEL.COM. He is using an AutoCAD file that I developed. This allows for a perfect cut on every spacer to within 1/100th of an inch tolerance. He has them cut professionally. Scroll down to "SUSPENSION ASSEMBLY" for a brief writeup with additional info and pics of the front suspension. In the rear, I'm using some Downey 2.5/3.5 Lift Springs with some OME N86 Shocks. I had to top the Downey Springs off w/ some custom 3/4" spacers and an additional OME 10mm Trimpacker on the Driver Side to get an even stance. I'm also still using the Factory Toyota Conical Bumpstops. Recently, I've added an Airlift 1000 with Load Controller II for some needed ability to adjust the rear spring stiffness. I ended up trimming two "pucks" off the rear conical bumpstops and then installing the air bags underneath them in the coil. I installed the compressor under the hood next to the Brake Master Cylinder and the Load Controller resides in the ashtray slot of the center console. The Load Controller is a nice addition, allowing for instant adjustments to the rear suspension from inside the cab. It has a gauge to indicate the system pressure, a switch for increasing the pressure, and a release valve to bleed the pressure out of the system. Hidden behind the panel is a pressure switch that works to maintain a minimum pressure in the system. The pressure switch can easily be set to the desired minimum that needs to be maintained. Typically, when unloaded I just turn the system off and don't maintain any pressure in the bags. With a little weight and on road trips, I'll turn it on and it will level out the stance and firm up the ride for a more controlled feel. The pic below shows the stance with 8PSI in the rear bags. At 30 PSI, it's about 1/2" higher in the rear. The bags are rated for 100 PSI. I have a few pics of the suspension articulation IN ACTION as well as these shots from when I was trying out the TRD Tundra Coils for the first time back in the early fall of 2004. Since then, I've gone to OME N91s Struts up front and 305/70-16 MT/R's, but these should give you an idea of how well they work. More info on the setup and the latest pricing is available at THIS THREAD ON YOTATECH.COM.

SUSPENSION ASSEMBLY

The TRD Tundra Setup is BY FAR the best setup I've run on the front of my 4Runner. Here's a brief description of how to install it. You will need: TRD Tundra 4WD Front Coils Left Coil Part Number: 48131-AF100 Right Coil Part Number: 48131-AF090 Tokico TRD Blue Struts preferred, but you can use OME N91s Struts Revtek Extended Top Plate Studs 3/8" Top Plate Spacer (1 Pair is suggested) Original 4Runner or Tacoma Top Plate After removing the coil assembly from your 4Runenr or Tacoma, you will need to use a coil spring compressor to disassemble the coil spring from the strut. After you do that, place the retaining nuts on the three studs that are in the top plate to protect the threads. Use a large socket under the head of the studs and a hammer to tap them out of the plate. After removing all three of the original studs, you will need to seat the new extended studs in place. You need to place the deep well socket under the threaded portion of the stud and then drive the splined head into the top plate to secure it. Do this for all three new studs. Repeat this for the other side. Now it's time to assemble the coil and strut. Pay very close attention to the order of assembly! You need to make sure that the assembly is put together in the proper order. Next, it needs to be installed on the vehicle. It's easiest to install the top three nuts first to hold it in place, then get the lower bolt through the shock eye. It's very difficult to get the lower bolt through the eye without removing the 4 bolts that retain the lower ball joint to the spindle. Some are lucky and have had success using only the stock bottle-jack to force the arms low enough as shown here: As shown in the pics, the inside edge of the upper ball joint assembly usually contacts the coil before the lower arm will line up with the shock eye. Therefore, it's pretty much a necessity to remove the lower ball joint assembly from the spindle. This is very easy to do - just take out the 4 bolts that holds the lower ball joint to the spindle - and is also very easy to reassemble with the use of a floor jack to get it back into position. Make sure to use some blue locktite on the bolts upon reassembly. You don't want those to come loose for sure. The last thing on your list after installation should be a full alignment. You should have the shop adjust for caster, camber, and toe. If they tell you that you don't have caster adjustments, or that they can't get it in spec, then have them take a look at THIS and try again. Actually, it wouldn't be a bad idea to print it out and take it with you in case they try to give you the runaround. If they still can't get it, then get a refund and take it to somebody who knows what they're doing. Many thanks to CRUX on yotatech.com for the excellent pics of the installation process.

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